THE FRENCH Paſtry Cook
CHAP. I.
Containing the manner how to make Rye Paſte, or Dough.
AS for example, take a Peck and a half of Rye flower, out of which the courſe bran hath been taken, knead the ſaid meal very well with hot water, untill you make it become firm; This kind of paſte, or dough, will cheefly ſtand you in2 ſtead to make Paſty-cruſt for your groſſer ſort of Venſon, and for gamons of Bacon, which are to bee ſent afarre off, or to bee long kept; which ſaid cruft muſt be ſtrong, and at leaſt two or three inches thick. To this kind of paſte, or dough; you may adde one half pound of Butter which will make it the better.
CHAP. II.
To make white Paſte, or Dough, for great Pyes.
FOr Example, place on your paſtry Table, well cleanſed three quarters of a peck of fine flower, make a hole or hollowneſſe in the middle of it, which concavity the French Paſtry Cooks call a fountain, add unto it two pound of ſweet Butter, & in caſe the Butter be hard you muſtwork it with your hands, before you put it upon the paſtry Table, to the end that it may become ſoft;3 when you have mingled the Butter with the flower, you may adde thereunto about the quantity of three ounces of ſalt reduced to powder, and immediately alſo adde thereunto half a pint of fair water, after which you may beginne to make your paſte or dough, which muſt bee very well kneaded; and whilſt you are making of your paſte as aforeſaid, you may by whiles ſprinkle it with water.
Now when your Paſte is very wel kneaded, you muſt extend it and ſtretch it forth with a woodden rowling Pin, ſtrew ſome flower both upon and under the dough, that ſo it may not ſtick to your paſtry Table, nor rowling Pin.
You may obſerve once for all, that it is requiſite in Winter, to make the paſte fatter than in ſummer, to render it the more ſupple and tractable, and on the contrary, in Summer or in hot weather, you muſt make the paſte leſſe fat by a little, and conſequently put4 leſſe butter therein, for to make it firmer, for the heat doth over ſoften the Dough, and cauſeth it to fall, which is occaſioned by its being made over fat; However you muſt obſerve thus much, alwaies to qualify your paſte proportionably unto the fineneſſe you will have it of.
You muſt alſo obſerve, that in caſe the weather be cold when you make your paſte, you ſhal do well to cover it with a warm cloath when it is half kneaded, to the end that it may bee the better mollified; after which you may compleat the working and kneading of it, untill your dough be throughly ſtifned, and that you do not feel any clots, or clutters in the kneading of it.
CHAP. III.
To make very white fine Paſte or Dough, which may bee uſeful for Mince-pies and ſuch like to bee eaten5 hot; as alſo for cruſt for Tarts, Florentines, Cuſtards, Fools, Cheeſ-Cakes, Lambs-ſtones and ſweet-breads, and the like.
MAke your white paſte as aforeſaid, and inſtead of putting two pounds of butter to three quarters of a peck of fine flower, you muſt put three pounds therein; And thus you will attain to the making of an excellent Paſte for Mince-pies, for veal Pies, for Pigeon pies, for Mutton pies, and ſuch like, which are to be eaten hot.
And when you have a mind to prepare a Paſte to make ſuch a like Pye of, you muſt give it a thickneſs of about three or four half Crowns, but you muſt have a care to make the bottome of the pye ſomewhat thicker, that ſo the Pye it ſelf may be the better ſupported.
And when as you intend to make uſe of ſuch like paſte for Tarts, Cuſtards, Cheeſe-Cakes, white-pots, Lambs-ſtones and ſweet-breads, and6 the like, you muſt only give it a thickneſſe of about half a crown, more or leſſe, proportionably according to the bigneſſe of your Pye, tart, cuſtard, or the like.
CHAP. IV.
To make a leaved, or Extraordinary thin Paſte or Dough.
AS for Example, lay upon your kneading board or Table, half a peck of wheaten Meal flower, make a hollow in it, and pour a glaſſe of water into it, adde thereunto about half an ounce of beaten Salt, mingle all theſe very well together, to make your paſte or dough, and ever and anon ſprinkle it with ſome water proportionably as you ſhall finde it to be requiſite.
When this your Paſte ſhall be very well knitted together, although ſomewhat limber, you may put it into a Maſs or round lump, and ſo let it7 remain for the ſpace of one half hour or thereabouts, to the end that it may become drye and firm, after which you may extend it with a rowling-pin, untill it bee an inch thick, caſting good ſtore of flower upon it now and then.
After which you may take a pound of good freſh Butter, which is very ſtiff and hard, and ſpread the ſaid Butter over your Paſte, and flatten it upon the Dough with your hands; after which you muſt fold in the four corners of the Dough, or elſe you may only double your Paſte, in ſuch, a manner, as that the Butter may be incloſed in it, which being thus done, you muſt again extend your Paſte, and rowle it very thinne with your Rowling-pin, then double in again the four corners of your Paſte towards the middle, & ſpread it abroad again with your Rowling-pin, and thus you muſt fold it and unfold it five or ſix ſeveral times, that ſo you may finally render your Paſte as thinne as it ſhall be requiſite; Nor8 muſt you forget to ſtrow it with a little flower, that it may not ſtick upon your Kneading-board or Table, neither upon your Rowling-pin nor Fingers.
Whenſoever you will make uſe of this thin Paſte or Dough towards the making of a Pigeon Pie, or any other Paſtrie work, you may take as great or leſſe a quantity of it, as you may judge convenient, according to the proportion of the Pie you intend to make; and having put it up in a maſſe or lump, you may afterwards extend it with your Rowlingpin, ſtrowing it with ſome flower, ſo that you may reduce it to the thickneſs of about a ſhilling peece in ſilver.
And when you have thus rowled out your Paſte for the laſt time, you ſhall again ſtrow it with a ſmall quantity of flower, and then double it again, and put it upon one half of the Pie-plate, after which you may abate upon the other half of the Pielate, the other half of the Dough or9 thin Paſte; And finally in this manner you may faſhion and ſhape your Paſtie in ſuch a manner as ſhall bee hereafter deſcribed.
Note, that in caſe you put leſſe Butter than is preſcribed in your Paſte, it will bee then but a half leaved Paſte or Dough.
CHAP. V.
To make a Paſte with Oyl, and the way how to take away the ſent of the Oyl.
IN the firſt place you muſt ſet your Oyle over the fire, that is to ſay, you muſt cauſe it to boyl till it bubbles no more; and by this means you will take away both the ſent and the unpleaſantneſſe of the Oyl. Some others whilſt the Oyl is a boyling put a cruſt of bread into it.
Having thus prepared your Oyl, you may put upon your kneadingboard, as for example, one pinte of10 Meal-flower, whereunto adde two or three yolks of Eggs, and as much ſalt as you can take up betwixt your two fingers, and as much Oyle as your own diſcretion will prompt you to, and the fourth part of half a pint of water, or thereabouts (a little more or leſſe) mingle all theſe things very well together, and work your Paſte throughly with your hands, but leave it ſomewhat of the hardeſt, becauſe the Oyl hath not ſo firm and ſolid a body as the Butter. Finally having made your Paſte or Dough in this manner, you may make uſe of it according to your pleaſure.
CHAP. VI.
To make ſweet Paſte or Dough.
FOr example, take a quarter of a pound of powdered Sugar ſifted through a hair or ranging ſieve, then put it into a clear Marble Morter, adde thereunto the quarter of the11 white of an Egge, and about half a ſpoon-full of Lemmon juce, ſtir all theſe foftly together, untill the Sugar begins to jelly, and in caſe it will not eaſily jelly, adde thereunto ſome few drops of Roſe-water, and when the Sugar doth begin to jelly, you muſt beat it with a Peſtel till it becomes a hard and firm Paſte, and when the ſame is well mingled, you may make Paſtie cruſts thereof.
Note that at your pleaſure you may alſo make Paſte that is but half ſweetned, by mingling an equal part or proportion of Suger and of Meal together; the which you may mingle together in the ſelf ſame manner, as is hereafore deſcribed.
CHAP. VII.
To make the ſweet ſpices which are uſed by the Paſtry-Cooks.
FOr example, take two parts of Ginger, as two ounces, and one12 part, viz. one ounce of beaten Pepper, mingle them together, adde thereunto beaten Cloves, and Nutmegs very ſmall grated, and beaten Mace, one ounce or thereabouts of each, for one pound of Pepper more or leſſe, as you pleaſe, and put up all theſe ſeveral ingredients thus mingled in a Box.
Note, that it is at your liberty to preſerve all the foregoing ſeveral ſorts of ſpices ſeparately in little leather purſes, or in a box which is divided into ſeveral drawers or repartitions.
Note alſo, that diverſe perſons do only make uſe of the ſingle Pepper, in ſtead of the other ſpices, although it muſt needs bee granted that the compoſed ſpices altogether muſt needs bee more pleaſing and Aromatick than the Pepper alone.
CHAP. VIII.
To make ſalt ſpices.
CAuſe your Salt to be well dried, and afterwards beat to powder, of which powder you ſhall mingle with your ſweet ſpices aforementioned, the weight of the ſaid Salt being more than the weight of the ſpices four or five times; all theſe you muſt preſerve together in a place which is not at all humid or moiſt.
CHAP. IX.
The manner how to make the Paſtry-Cooks varniſh ſtuff with the which hee giveth his Pies a colour.
BEat together the yolks and whites of Eggs, juſt as if you would make an Omelet or Pankake; & in caſe you will have your varniſh to be ſtrong and good, it will be ſufficient14 to beat one white of an Egge with two or three yolks; and on the contrary, in caſe you will have your varniſh Pale, you ſhould only need to take the yolks of Eggs and beat them with water.
Now the way to make uſe of the aforeſaid waſh or varniſh, take a few feathers, or a little Pencil, or bruſh, either of Silk, or Hoggs bruſſles, which ſaid bruſh or Pencil muſt bee very ſoft, Wet the ſaid Pencils or bruſſles in your waſh or varniſh, and ſo uſe it at your diſcretion to waſh or varniſh your Paſtery works.
Now in caſe you will not go to the charge of Eggs to make your waſh or varniſh, you may diſſolve a little Saffron, or Marigold flowers in Milk; ſo likewiſe in Lent you may make uſe of the Eggs of a Pike, or Jack, for your waſh or varniſh, that being moſt proper for Lent, having no relation to fleſh.
One thing you muſt obſerve, that the Paſtrie-Cooks put hony in their15 waſhing or varniſhing for to ſpare Eggs.
CHAP. X.
The manner how to make Cream which the Paſtry-Cooks uſe.
AS for example, take one half pinte of good Milk, compleat Milk, Maids meaſure, which doth weigh near about one pound and a half, of Cowes Milk.
Put the ſaid Milk in a skillet on the fire, and take four Eggs, and whilſt the Milk is a warming on the fire, break two Eggs and beat the yolks and whites of them together, with about half a pinte of meal flower, in the ſelf ſame manner, as if it were to make broath, adding thereunto a little Milk; And when the meal ſhall be well thinned, in ſuch a ſort as that there are no clots left, you ſhall break the other two Eggs into it ſeverally, that ſo they may be the better mingled16 in this Compoſition.
And when you perceive the Milk doth begin to boil, you muſt poure the ſaid Compoſition of Eggs and Meal thus ſteeped together with the Milk, as we ordered it before; After which let the whole boil together over a ſmall fire which burneth clear without any ſmoak at all; ſtir all this compoſure or mixture with a ſpoon, juſt as if it were broath; And whilſt it is a boyling, you muſt ſalt it according to your own diſcretion, and adde thereunto a quarter of a pound of good pure freſh Butter.
This ſaid Cream muſt bee boyled within a quarter of an hour, and a half, or thereabouts, after which you may poure it into a Porrenger, and ſo preſerve it; This Compoſition is by the Paſtry-Cooks called Cream, and is by them made uſe of in ſevetal Paſtry meats and other Cookenes.
CHAP. XI.
Another kind of Cream which is farre delight fuller.
AS for example, take a quartern of ſweet Almonds pilled, and beat them in a Morter, and adde thereunto a good quartern, or almoſt half a pound of Sugar, mingle them together, by adding now and then a little Roſe-water.
When your Almonds ſhall be thus prepared, you muſt take half a pinte of Milk, according to the Milk-Maids meaſure, and four freſh Eggs, break your Eggs, and put only the yolks of them in a Porringer, and make them thinne with a little Milk, after which you ſhall caſt them into the Almond paſte to be mingled together.
And hence you muſt take as much flower, as four ſilver ſpoons will contain, and make it liquid with ſome of your milk, in the ſame manner as if you were a making of broath, and18 after that the ſaid milk is perfectly ſoked and diſſolved, you may adde the reſt of the half pinte of milk thereunto; and ſo let it boyl like unto a broath; Note, that you muſt ſpare a little of your milk, that ſo you may put it in the Cream whilſt it is a ſeething, in caſe it ſhould grow too thick.
Now when this ſaid Cream ſhall be half boyled, pour into it your almonds which you ſhall have prepared as aforeſaid, and you muſt have a care to ſtirre the whole very well whilſt it doth boili, and to ſalt it likewiſe; And when as this compoſition ſhall bee well boyled and thickned to a competent conſiſtency, you muſt pour it into a Porenger, and let the ſaid cream reſt in the ſame manner until the next day, or at leaſt ſo long time untill it bee converted into a gelly, inſomuch that you may bee able to cut it with a knile, juſt as you do other gellie, paſte, or dough.
CHAP. XII.
The manner to make Lenten Cream.
TAke a pint of good Cows milk, and cauſe it to be boyled, take alſo a little more than half a pint of flower diſſolved in milk, and pour it into the boyling milk, after which adde thereunto a good quarter of a pound of ſweet Almonds, peeled and beaten in a morter together with a little Milk, and you muſt obſerve, that they muſt bee a little leſſe beaten than thoſe you intend to make Macaroons, or little ſweet Fritter-like buns withall, you muſt ſalt your ſaid Cream whilſt it is a boyling, adding thereunto a quarter of a pound of freſh butter, and you muſt alwaies ſtir this compoſition whilſt it is a boyling, and towards the latter end you may thereunto adde a ſmall quantity of ſteeped Saffron in milk, to give your ſaid Cream a20 pleaſant colout, and when your ſaid Cream ſhall bee thus boyled to a ſufficient conſiſtency, you may diſh it up in porengers, untill ſuch time as it is fixt and ſetled, and ſo let it reſt till you have occaſion to make uſe of it.
CHAP. XIII.
The manner how to make ſugared Ice, or Froſt.
TAke an earthen diſh, and put hereinto, (as for example) a quarter of a pound of ſuger, powdered very fine, adde thereunto the half of the white of an egge, and a ſilver ſpoon full of Roſe water, or more if it bee requiſite, Beat all theſe ingredients together, untill the whole be reduced to a conſiſtency of a thick Sirrop, or like unto clear broth.
The Paſtry Cooks call this compoſition ſugered Ice or Froſt, becauſe21 they make uſe of it to gloſſe their paſties, and March-panes and their Engliſh pyes, upon which it muſt bee gently and ſuddenly ſpread, according to the directions which ſhall hereafter bee given theron, either with the back of a little ſpoon or with a knife, or with a pencill, in the ſame manner as your varniſh is applyed to the Paſtry-works.
CHAP. XIV.
Several general advertiſements concerning the Paſtry Art.
OBſerve that in caſe you have but a few paſties or pyes to bee baked in a great Oven, you ſhall not therefore need to heat the whole Oven, but one part thereof proportionably to the pyes you have to bake.
Curious houſe-wives and Lovers of this Art, have purpoſely ſmall22 Ovens fitted for this uſe at their own dwellings, and others are ſo exact, that they have portative Ovens; which may bee tranſported from place to place.
Your Cooks they for the moſt part make uſe of covered Tart pans, wherein they bake their delicate Cakes, Tarts, and exquiſite pyes.
Obſerve, That whenſoever wee do ſpeak of, or allege the word pound, as for Example, a pound of butter, wee do thereby mean the pound which doth weigh ſixteen ounces or two marks of Goldſmiths weights, and thus of all weights proportionably.
Obſerve alſo, that when we mention or allege a Pinte, that wee mean the pinte according to the Pariſian meaſure, the which doth contain the weight of two pounds of water, within an ounce or thereabout, and almoſt the ſame quantity in wine; The Choppin as they call it in France is half a pint, and the Septies as they call it, is a quarter of23 a pinte; And although theſe meaſures have ſeveral appellations according to the reſpective places where they are uſed, However you can never bee miſtaken in caſe you ſtick unto the weight of the meaſures which are by me propounded.
Obſerve therefore, that when we ſpeak of a pinte of milk, that ſuch a pinte moſt weigh three pounds within an ounce or there abouts, and all the other meaſures proportionably, and conſequently the Poſſon, as the French call it, of Milk being the eighth part of a pinte of milk, according to the milk-maides meaſure, muſt weigh five ounces and a half, and three drams or thereabouts.
Obſerve alſo, That when wee ſpeak of a French Buſhell of meal, wee do thereby underſtand the meal that is boulted, and without Branne, and ſuch a buſhell of meal muſt weigh twelve or thirteen pounds, or thereabouts; And of the other meaſures proportionably, viz.
24That the half Buſhel muſt weigh ſix pounds or a little more. The quarter of the buſhell muſt weigh three pounds full and good weight.
The Lition as they call it, or pinte, being the ſixteenth part of a buſhell of meal flower, muſt, weigh three quarters; That is to ſay twelve ounces.
And thus you have the generall obſervations concerning the meaſures and weights, which are commonly uſed in Paſtry work.
CHAP. XV.
The manner how to put a Gammon of Bacon in Paſte.
CAuſe your Gammon of Bacon to bee ſteeped in water, more or leſſe, according unto its bigneſs, thickneſſe, and dryneſſe.
In caſe a Gammon of Beacon bee very bigge, well ſmoaked and dried, as your Mayence Gammonds25 and Bayonne Gamons uſually are, you muſt let them ſteep in the water, for at leaſt the ſpace of twenty and four hours, or more; and then you may give a gueſſe, whether or no your Gammon bee well ſteeped.
Which that you may the better be able to judge of, you ſhall take it out of the ſaid water, and make an opening or hole in the midſt of the fleſh, drawing forth a little peece of it, and by taſting it, you may bee able to judge whether the ſalt and brine be ſufficiently extracted; which having done, and finding it according to your expectation, you ſhall thus prepare it for to bee put in paſte.
In the firſt place therefore you muſt pare the top of your Gamon untill you come to the quick fleſh, that ſo you may take off the ſuperficies or upper part of the fleſh; & all that you judge to be too dry & ſalt, after which you muſt alſo take away the skin or upper part and you muſt26 alſo cut off the knuckle.
Now having prepared your Gammon in this manner, you muſt knead as much dough as you ſhall judge requiſite for your paſty; and you muſt make your cruſt at leaſt two inches thick or thereabouts, and upon the middle of the bottome of your Paſty, you muſt make a bed or foundation of ſlices of fat Bacon.
This bed or foundation of fat bacon muſt bee as broad as the whole Gammon of Bacon, and upon the ſaid Bed of fat Bacon you muſt place a good round handfull of parſly groſly ſhredded; after that you ſhall ſtrew your Gammon with your ſweet ſpices, and conſequently you ſhall place it upon the bed of fat Bacon and parſly, which having done, you ſhall ſtick ſome cloves upon your Gammon, and a few ſmall peeces of Mace, after which upon the top of your Gammon, you ſhall lay another Bed of parſly, and a bed of fat Bacon ſliced, and five27 or ſix Laurel leaves upon the fat bacon, and after that a good half pound of ſweet Butter, which you muſt ſo ſpread as that it may quite cover all the ſlices of fat bacon which lie upon your Gammon.
Moreover, you ſhall knead as much paſte or dough upon your kneading board as will bee requiſite to make the Cover or Lid of your Paſtle, which dough you muſt morſten with your little bruſh, and immediatly cover your paſty therwith; & having thus quite completed your ſaid Paſty, you muſt ſtraightwayes put it into the Oven, which muſt bee heated in the ſame manner as if you were to bake houſhold bread.
If your Gammon be a great one, as aforeſaid, it will require 3 houres boyling, but if it bee an indifferent one, two hours & a half wil ſerve, or two houres, according to its bigneſſe.
When your Paſty hath been in the Oven about half an houre, you muſt make three or four holes in the Lidde, for to give your paſty vent,28 for otherwiſe it would burſt; And this you muſt obſerve in all great Paſties. Moreover, in caſe the Paſtycruſt doth ſuddenly get a too high colour, and grows black, that's a ſign that your Oven is over heated, and that it burns your Paſty; wherefore you muſt take away the Embers.
And on the contrary, if your Paſty attaines no colour, that's a ſign the Oven is not hot enough, and which will force you to increaſe the Embers, that ſo your Paſty may be throughly baked.
One day after your Paſty hath been baked, you muſt ſtop up the holes which you made in the Lidde, with ſome dough, leſt your Paſtie might beſpoyled by the letting in of Air at thoſe holes, which would be the cauſe that your Paſty would bee ſubject to grow mouldy, and would not keep at all.
CHAP. XVI.
The manner how to make a Paſty according to the faſhion of the Baskes, or the inhabitants neer Bayonne upon the Fronteers of Spain.
CAuſe a Gammon of Bacon of Bayonne, or of Mayence, to bee ſteeped in water, (an ordinary Gammon will ſerve turn) and when your ſaid Gammon is throughly ſteeped, you may take it out of the water, and cleanſe it well on the top of it, and cut off all the yellow rindes, untill you come to the quick fleſh, cut off alſo the knuckle, and take off the skin, and in caſe the fat of the Bacon bee above an Inch thick, you muſt cut off the overplus, which will ſerve to be cut into ſlices, and to ſtuff your paſty.
When as your Bacon is thus prepared, you may cauſe it to be half per30 boyled in water, with ſome few Bay leaves, and other ſweet herbs; And when it is half boyled or thereabouts, you may take it out of the liquor, and may place it upon a dreſſer-board that it may dry, you may alſo take out the bones of the ſaid Gammon when it is half boyled, eſpecially if you intend to have your Paſty to be eaten hot.
After your Gammon ſhall bee well dryed, you may prepare a Ryepaſte, or dough, or a paſte of white meal, without any butter at all; you may alſo make this paſty like unto a venſon-paſty if you pleaſe, but you had better make a pie of it to bee preſently ſerved up, by reaſon of the thickneſſe of your Gammon; Wherefore to make the better hot paſty of this your Gammon, you muſt make up your cruſt in a round form, of a ſufficient bigneſſe, and give it at leaſt half a foot in height, and make it above an inch thick, after which you ſhall line the inſide of your paſtie with a lay of great31 ſlices of fat Bacon, like unto that Bacon wherewithall you are wont to lard your Capons and Turkies, upon which Bacon you muſt ſtrew a little parſly groſly chopt, then you ſhall powder your Gammon with two or three fingers full of ſweet pices, two fingers full of white beaten Pepper, & two fingers full of beaten Mace, and then you may place your Gammon upon the lay of your fat Bacon, and you ſhall ſtick upon your Gammon a matter of a dozen Cloves, with as many ſmall peeces of Mace ſliced, and Cinamon, whereunto you muſt adde a couple of bruiſed Onions, a ſmall quantity of Parſly & Time, half a pound of hoggs greaſe, half a pound of Beef marrow, and half a pound of good freſh butter, which is well ſoftned and ſpreaded, inſomuch that the ſaid butter may cover the whole top of the ſaid Gammon; And on the top of the ſaid Butter, you ſhall again ſtrew a good fingers full of white pepper, and as much32 beaten Cinamon, upon all which you muſt again lay ſome ſlices of fat bacon, and two or three Bay-leaves.
When your Paſtie is thus ſeaſoned and prepared, you muſt cover it with a lid of Dough, which cover muſt bee at leaſt an inch thick, after which you muſt varniſh or burniſh your ſaid lid, and you muſt peirce it in the middle & place upon it a little Cap or Crown of Dough made like unto a Socket, in caſe the Paſtie bee to be eaten hot; after which you may place your Paſtie upon a ſheet or two of Paper to put it into the Oven.
This Paſtie muſt bee at the leaſt four and twenty or thirty hours a baking; and your Oven muſt bee a little leſs heated than if it were to bake brown bread or Rye bread.
After your Paſtie ſhall have been five or ſix hours in the Oven, you muſt take it out of the Oven, and place it upon your dreſſer board, and you muſt gueſſe by the lid which you may take off, to ſee whether or no your Paſtie bee full of liquor or of33 ſauce; for in caſe you find that the liquor is diminiſhed, you muſt fill up your Paſtie again with good fleſh broath, which hath been made without Herbs or ſalt; and in caſe you have any Mutton gravy, you may mingle it with your ſaid broath, after which you may cover your Paſty again, and put it into the Oven immediately, and every five hours or thereabouts, you muſt take your Paſtie out of the Oven again to ſee whether it bee not grown dry, to the end to fill it up with broath as aforeſaid; and in this manner you muſt continue to ſupply your Paſty with broath, untill the meat which is in your ſaid Paſtie ſhall be rotten baked.
Three or four hours before your ſaid Paſtie ſhall be baked, you may fill it up with Lamb-ſtones, ſweetbreads, Muſcherons, and ſuch other like Imbelliſhments which will render it the more ſavoury and peaſing.
So likewiſe muſt you obſerve that whilſt your Paſtie is baking, you muſt alwaies keep your Oven heated,34 to which purpoſe you may now and then put hot Embers into the Oven, at a diſtance from your Paſtie, & ſometimes faggot-ſticks well lighted.
Now in caſe you ſhall have made your Paſty venſon wife, that is to ſay, in a long ſorm, you muſt prepare and fit it in the ſelf ſame manner, as aboveſaid, and overabove what hath been preſcribed, you muſt moreover place a lay of parſly both above and beneath your meat.
Nor muſt you forget to make three or four holes in the Lid of your Paſty to give it vent; as for Venſon Paſties, you need not to make any Cap or Crown upon them.
CHAP. XVII.
To make a Gammon Paſtie after the Turkiſh Mode.
YOu muſt cauſe your Gammon to be prepared as before, and when it ſhail have been half perboyled35 in water, and that you have cauſed the bones to bee taken out, you ſhall lard the lean part of your Gammon with ſlices of fat Bacon powdered with ſweet ſpices, the ſlices of Bacon ſhall bee as big as a Gooſe quill, after which you ſhall powder the Gammon it ſelf with a few ſweet ſpices, and with a little beaten white Pepper; after which you may prepare a paſte or dough of white cruſt, as in the foregoing Chapter. Thoſe who are very curious indeed, do moſt commonly make uſe of half-leaved paſte to make their Paſtie withall, chiefly in the winter ſeaſon, becauſe that kinde of paſte as then hath the better ſupport; but you muſt obſerve, that in caſe you ſhould make your paſte of whole-leaved dough, it would bee very difficult to bee wrought.
Having made your paſte, you muſt line it, or fill it within with ſlices of fat Bacon, a little Parſly and Time, after which put in your Gammon, upon which ſtick a few cloves, and a dozen ſlices of Cinamon, and36 wo good fingers full of beaten Cinamon, adde thereunto a little Parſely, a bruiſed Onion, and half a quarter of a pound of Pine-apple ſeeds or kernils, & half a quarter of a pound of Currans, a quarter of a pound of Piſtaches peeled, one quarter of a preſerved Lemmon, cut in ſmall ſlices, a good quarter and a half of powder Sugar, a half pound of freſh butter, a half pound of ſweet ſuet, and half a pound of marrow, and upon all this a great ſlice of fat Bacon, a Bay leaf or two, and a thought of Time; cloſe your ſaid Paſtie, and make a Cap or Crown upon the lid thereof, and cauſe the ſaid Paſtie to bee baked in the ſelf ſame manner, as in the aforeſaid Chapter; look by whiles to ſee whether the liquor bee wanting, and have a care to fill it up as aforeſaid.
Three or four houres before your Paſtie is baked, you may adde thereunto ſome Muſcherons, and Lambſtones with ſweet-breads; and two houres before you draw your ſaid37 Paſtie out of the Oven, you may poure a ſweet ſauce into it, compoſed of a glaſs of white Wine, of a quarter of a pound of Suger, of a little beaten Cinnamon, and if you pleaſe you may adde a little Verjuice or Vineger thereunto.
Obſerve, that in caſe this your Paſtie bee not all eaten at one meal, you may cauſe it to bee heated ſeveral times; and in caſe your liquor or ſauce ſhould chance to fail, you may ſupply that defect with broath or Mutton gravy, which you may adde thereunto.
CHAP, XVIII.So likewiſe the manner how to make a38 Hare Pie, a Conny Pie, a Gooſe Pie, a Turkie-Cook Pie, a Duck Pie, a Partridge Pie, a Pigeon Pie of old or young Pigeons; and finally all other kinde of wild or tame foul whatſoever.
The manner how to put all kind of Venſon in Paſte, either Stags fleſh, wilde Boares, Bucks and Does, or any other groſs Meats, as a brisket of Veal, a but tock of Beef, a legge or any other joynt of Mutton.
YOu muſt generally obſerve, that no kinde of fleſh whatſoever may be put in paſte before it be mortified; Therefore you muſt let that fleſh which yee do intend to put in paſte bee ſufficiently mortified, which may bee done, by hanging it in the Air, or by burying of it under ground for the ſpace of twenty and four houres; after which you muſt beat the ſaid fleſh-meat more or leſs with a wooden rowler or peſtel, according to the ſaid fleſhes thickneſs and hardneſs, which is a third way to mortifie it; ſo likewiſe muſt you obſerve, that Beef and Mutton muſt bee more beaten and mortified than any other fleſh whatſoever.
Obſerve likewiſe, that it is requiſite to take out the ſuperfluous and39 great bones of ſuch fleſh as you intend to put into paſte, as for example out of the leg or ſhoulder of Mutton; and as for the remaining bones which are in the ſaid fleſh, you muſt burſt and break them at leaſt, in caſe you intend not to take them out quite; in the like manner you take out the breaſt bone of a Turky-cock, and of other foul in the like manner.
Obſerve alſo, that in caſe your fleſh which you intend to paſtrie up, hath great nerves & hard ſinnews, or tough skins, you muſt take all that away; as for example, from a ſhoulder or leg of Mutton you muſt take off the skin; in the like manner, if you intend to make a Hare-pie, and that you apprehend it may be an old and hard one, you muſt ſtrip off its uppermoſt skin before you lard it.
Moreover, you muſt obſerve, that in caſe there be hollow places in ſuch fleſh as you intend to paſtrie up, as there is in a Hare, and in ſeveral foul,40 you muſt bruiſe and break thoſe bones which cauſe that ſame hollowneſs, and ſo make your fleſh even and ſmooth; As for example, the Maw of a Turki-Cock, which you muſt cut and flaſh at every four fingers diſtance, that ſo you may the better bee able to lard it.
Now in caſe your Venſon, or other groſs Viands, which you do intend to put in paſte, ſhould be ſomewhat tainted, or in caſe they ſhould be warm eaten, cauſe water and ſalt to bee boyled together, and let your ſaid Venſon, or other groſs meats ſteep therein, as in a broath, and having ſo ſteeped for a while, draw it forth again, and hang it up to drye, that ſo the ſaid liquor may run out.
Now your Viands having been prepared according to the ſeveral foregoing preſcriptions, you may lard them very cloſe with great peeces of fat Bacon, bigger or leſſer, according to the proportion and quality of your ſeveral ſorts of Viands; ſome41 ſlices of Bacon as thick and as long as your little finger, for Venſon, Beef, and Mutton, others leſs, according to your own diſcretion; and it will bee requiſite that you ſteep your larding Bacon ſome pretty while before you uſe it, in a little Vineger ſeaſoned with ſalt; and before you lard your Viands with them, powder them with beaten white Pepper, or with your ſweet ſpices, which you pleaſe.
And in caſe your Viands be thick, and of the length of half a foot, or thereabouts, as for example, a Briſket of Veal, or a Turky-Cock, and the like, either lance them, or cut them with Trenches at every four inches diſtance or thereabouts, in ſuch a wiſe however that all the skin, or upper part of the fleſh may remain whole, and by the means of theſe deep Trenches you may eaſily come to lard all the parts of your ſaid Viands, which cannot bee otherwiſe done; Beſides that, your Viands remaining entire and whole, would42 bee the more difficult to bee baked, and the ſauce or liquor of your Paſtie would not bee able to penetrate or paſſe through your fleſh, but with a great deal of difficulty, in caſe it were not lanced in the ſame manner as it hath been propoſed.
Some there be that do ſteep their Beef, Mutton, Veal, and other Viands which they do intend to put in paſte two or three hours in Verjuice or Vineger ſeaſoned with ſalt and Pepper, or with ſweet ſpices, and with ſome ſweet herbs, and the which muſt bee done, as ſoon as the ſaid Viands ſhall have been beaten with the Peſtel or Rowling-pin, and after the ſaid Viands ſhall have been larded, and when you ſhall have drawn it forth of the ſaid liquor, you muſt perfect the putting of it into paſte in the following manner.
Your fleſh being ready to be put into paſte, you muſt ſeaſon it according to your own diſcretion with your ſalt ſpices, in ſuch a manner as that your ſaid Viands do well retain43 the ſalt or ſeaſon, to which end you muſt powder them throughly on all ſides, and in caſe it bee a Foul or any other fleſh that is hollow, you muſt as then powder it inwards, and before you powder it on the thighs and back, you muſt make ſome lancements or inlets therein, to the end that your ſaid ſpices may the better hold or faſten, and may have the better operation.
Your Viands being thus ſeaſoned, you muſt place them upon the one end of your Dough or paſte, either framed of Rye cruſt, or of wheaten or white, which you pleaſe, at diſcretion as aforeſaid, which ſaid paſte muſt bee at leaſt an inch in thickneſſe, and long enough to make up the whole Paſtie.
Your Viand or Venſon, or the like, being placed upon one of the ends of your Paſte, you may ſtick therein ſome few Cloves, and after that you may fill it up with ſome ſlices of fat Bacon, unto which you may alſo adde ſome Bay-leaves, and44 over and above all theſe things you may alſo apply ſome freſh butter ſpread over the whole paſty, as aforeſaid in the foregoing Chapter.
Obſerve or note, that to make a good Hare, or Turky-pye, or a pye with four Ducks, you muſt have at leaſt a quarter and a half, or much about half a peck and a quarter, or three quarters of a Buſhel of meal; moreover two pounds of butter, and if ſo bee you will have the cruſt to bee very fine, you may put therein two pounds and a half, or three pounds of butter, yet however note this alſo, that the cruſt being ſo fat may bee ſubject to burſt in the Oven.
Now in caſe your paſty bee of Venſon, or of any other viand that's not fat, as for example, in caſe you have a mind to accomodate a Hare excellently wel, you muſt needs have one half pound, or three quarters of a pound of freſh butter to wrap the Hare in, and at leaſt one pound45 and a half, or two pounds of fat bacon, as well to lard your viand; as to cover it after it is Empaſted.
But and if the Meat you intend to put in paſte, bee not over dry nor lean; As for example, ſuppoſe it bee a Turky-cock, well fatned, or a good fat joynt of mutton, you ſhall only ſtand in need of a good quarter of a pound of freſh butter, to incloſe the ſaid viand withall, and good ſtore of fat Bacon, to lard it to boot, wherein you muſt not fail.
Another obſervation you may take along with you, that ſome paſtry-men do make uſe of ſweet ſuet, inſtead of freſh butter, to raiſe their paſte withall.
Finally, So ſoon as your fleſh ſhall bee well and throughly ſeaſoned with all the requiſite ſpices, and ingredients aforenamed, and that it ſhall bee well lined with butter below and above, you may as then turn up the end of the paſte which is left, over the whole, only46 moiſtening the end of the paſte which remains, to refreſh it, and joyn well the ſides, and when you have thus well joyned or added the ſides, you may give it what ſhape you will, after which you may burniſh your Pye or Paſty, and immediately after you may put it to the Oven.
Obſerve, that your Oven muſt bee almoſt as hot, as is preſcribed in the precedent Chapter, and thus theſe foregoing Paſties, will be ſufficiently baked in two hours ſpace provided they bee not extraordinary great and thick ones. And when your ſaid Paſties ſhall bee thus well and throughly baked, and cooled again, you muſt not forget to ſtop the holes which you made in their liddes. For the reaſons before alleged.
By reaſon that in caſe you do not make the ſaid holes in the Lidde of your ſaid Paſtie, within a little while after it hath been in the Oven, it will ſplit or burn by reaſon of the heat.
CHAP. XIX.
To make a Royal Paſty which is to be eaten hot.
TAke a good Leg of Mutton, ſtrip the skin off from it, take out the bones, and the ſinnews, after which beat the fleſh, to mortifie it, and then cauſe it to be well chopt, and as you chop it, you muſt ſeaſon it well with ſalt ſpices.
Now your Meat being thus well chopped, you muſt make up your Paſty of Rie-cruſt, and give it at leaſt two inches in thickneſs, proportionably according unto the bigheſſe of your Paſty, and raiſe the paſte thereof high enough.
You muſt line the bottome and ſides thereof, with fat Bacon in ſlices, and in the bottome you muſt alſo place a good handful of ox ſuet, which is ſmall minced, and thereunto adde your Meat, after it ſhall48 have been well minced, and in caſe cheſnuts bee in ſeaſon, you may adde thereunto a reaſonable proportion, after they ſhall have been firſt half roaſted.
When your Meat ſhall bee thus in your paſte, you muſt adde thereunto one handfull of Beef ſuet well minced, and about half a pound of beef marrow cut into ſmall peeces, about the bigneſſe of a wall-nut. All which compoſition you muſt cover or overſpread with ſome ſlices of fat Bacon.
Finally, You ſhall cover this Paſtie with rye cruſt at leaſt a finger breaths thick, and you muſt make a hole in the ſaid lidde.
Such a like paſty as this, muſt bee at leaſt 20 or four and twenty houres in the Oven, which ſaid Oven you muſt all the while keep ſhut, to the end that it may yeeld a ſufficient heat, whereby the ſaid Paſty may bee throughly baked; which ſaid Paſty you muſt oftentimes take out of the ſaid Oven, to ſupply it with49 broath or gravy, as often as it ſhall be wanting.
To which purpoſe take the bones and the skin, and the ſinews, which you have cut away from the ſaid Legge of Mutton, bruiſe them indifferently, and afterwards boile them together with the ſaid skin and ſinnews, for the ſpace of one houre and a half in water without ſalt, and when as the ſaid Liquor and Broath ſhall bee concocted in ſuch a manner as that there ſhall bee but a pint left, you ſhall make uſe of it in the following manner, viz.
After your Royal Paſty ſhal have been about the ſpace of four hours in the Oven, you muſt draw it, and you muſt poure thereinto with a Funnel, about the quantity of a quarter of a pinte of the ſaid liquor or broath, being well heated; After which you ſhall again put your Paſty into the Oven, and within two or three houres, you ſhall draw it, and you ſhall ſee whether or no it doth want any ſauce or liquor, in50 caſe whereof you ſhall adde more ſauce unto it, and in this manner you ſhall draw your ſaid Paſty at ſeveral times, till it hath continued in the Oven for the ſpace of fifteen or ſixteen hours, when as you ſhall again draw it forth of the Oven, and ſhall take off its Lidde, for to embelliſh your Paſty with the Yolks of Eggs; hard boyled cut in quarters, you may alſo adde thereunto Mucherons, the Gils and combs of Cocks, and other-like ſweetbreads, you may alſo thereunto adde a ſmall Clove of Garlick, and a drop or two of vinegar; for to make the ſauce more pleaſing and tart, obſerve alſo that your Lambs-ſtones, and ſweet-breads, muſt bee ſeaſoned with your ſweet ſpices.
After which you muſt return the ſaid Paſty into the Oven again, and you ſhall let it remain there till it be throughly baked, at leaſt three hours afterwards, and you muſt have a care that the ſauce or liquor thereof bee perfectly conſumed before you51 take your, Paſty out of the Oven, for good and all; So likewiſe muſt you have a care to maintain the fire in the ſaid Oven, in ſuch manner as that there may bee a ſufficient heat to bake your ſaid Paſtie without the burning of it.
When this like Paſtie is throughly baked, you ſhall take out of it the Clove of Garlike which you did put into it; before you do ſerve it up to the Table, and after that you ſhall faſten on the Lidde of your Paſtie again, that ſo your Paſtie may bee brought whole to the Table; and if ſo bee the ſaid Pye be not eaten up at one meal, you may cauſe it to bee heated again in the Oven, untill ſuch time as it is quite expended.
CHAP. XX.
To make a Paſty and a Tart of a Capon, of a Breſt of Veal, of Pigeons, of Larks, and of other ſorts of ſmall Foules, to be eaten hot.
PRepare your Paſtie Cruſt which muſt be very fine, make it of a proportionable height and bigneſs, of that which you do intend to put into it, and have a care to make the middle of the bottome a little thicker than the reſt of the Paſty; fill up the bottome or line it with a little Beef ſuet Minced, and ſome marrow, in caſe it bee to bee had, or elſe inſtead thereof put therein a little ſat Bacon ſmall ſhred, the peeces not exceeding the bigneſſe of a Peaſe.
Afterwards take the meate, which you do intend to put into the ſaid paſty, having firſt waſhed it with53 warm water, and having entirely cleanſed it, and dried it that it retain no moiſture; And if it bee a breaſt of Mutton, you may make it become extream white by perboyling of it never ſo little in the ſaid hot water; And the Meat being well wyped and dryed, you muſt cut into ſeveral peeces about two fingers in thickneſſe, and you muſt alſo cut the ribs in twain. Thus much for Veal.
But and if it be a Capon, or any other ſort of foul, or any kind of Venſon which you intend to put in paſte, you may flatten its breſt, bruiſe its bones, and cut ſome lanſements in its breſt; Moreover you muſt cut off its neck, the extremities of its wings and its leggs, and afterwards put the Meat into your Paſtie, after which you muſt ſeaſon it with your ſalt ſpices, and at laſt you may fill up your Pye with a good lumpe of butter, and with ſlices of fat bacon, you may alſo if you pleaſe, adde hereunto ſome Lambsſtones, Cox-combes, ſome ſparagus,54 ſome Hartichoak ſtools, ſome whole boyled yolks of Eggs, or in ſeverall quarters, ſome Mucherons, ſome verjuice in the grape, and ſome parſly very ſmall chopt, and alſo ſome ſmall ſauſegees, above all which ingredients you muſt lay a few ſlices of fat Bacon, and a good quantity of butter, after which your ſaid Paſty being thus furniſhed and garniſhed, you may cloſe it up, and you muſt wrap it up in brown paper to ſuſtain or uphold the cruſt, and to hinder it from burſting in the Oven.
You muſt make a hole in the midſt of the Lidde, and after you ſhall varniſh or burniſh your Paſty, and ſo you may put it into the Oven, giving it a like heat unto your Paſties, which are to bee ſerved up hot to Table, according to the foregoing preſcription, and as it ſhall be more particularly declared in the enſuing Chapter.
Theſe kind of paſtys wil be ſufficiently baked within an hour and a halfes time more or leſſe, according to the bigneſs of your paſtie, as alſo proportionably55 unto the heat of your Oven.
You may alſo make theſe kind of Paſties, in a Tart Pann, with a leaved Cruſt, chiefly if you do garniſh it with Pigeons.
CHAP. XXI.
To make a Paſty with a ſweet Sauce.
NOw in caſe you do deſire to make one of theſe ſelf ſame Paſties, and to give it a ſweet ſauce, you muſt draw it forth to the Ovens Mouth, by that Time it is half baked, and you muſt put a Funnell into the hole which is in the middle of the ſaid Paſties Lidde, and you ſhall poure thereinto a glaſſefull of Hypocriſſe well ſweetned, or as much as you ſhall judge requiſite according to the bigneſſe of your Paſtie, or otherwiſe a good quantity of melted Butter, in which Sugar hath been diſſolved, and a little Cinnamon,56 more or leſſe of each of them according to the bigneſſe of your ſaid Paſty.
After which you ſhall put your ſaid Paſtie into the Oven again and ſhall let it bee well and throughly baked.
CHAP. XXII.
To make a Paſtie to bee eaten immediately, being ſerved up hot.
AS for example, take almoſt a pound weight of Veal, or of freſh Pork, or of Mutton, or of Beef, the brisket of Veal is the moſt propereſt peece to make theſe Paſties of; take likewiſe one pound of Beef ſuet, which is freſh, or rather marrow, mince or chop all theſe very ſmall together, and in the choping of them, you may powder them with ſalt and ſpices, and after that you may throughly chop them ſmall, you may alſo if you pleaſe mince a57 few Leeks, or a little Parſly amongſt your ſaid Meat and Suet.
When your meat is thus minced, you may adde thereunto the white and the yolk, or the white alone of a new Egge, and you may the better mingle it with your minced meat with a wooden fork, to the end that the whole compoſition may bee the better mingled and knitted together, unto which you may adde ſome few Pine-apple ſeeds or kernels, and currans, in caſe you bee ſo minded, or do deſire to have your paſty very delicate.
After which you may prepare a paſte of fine dough, of a round form, and you may fill it up half full with your minced meat, which having well plained, and preſſed cloſe to your Cruſt, you may lay thereon a few ſparagus, or ſome peeces of Hartichoak bottoms, or Muſcherons, yolks of Eggs boiled hard, and cut in quarters, ſome ſlices of Ox tongues, in caſe you have them at hand, ſome ſheeps Plucks, ſome Piſtaches,58 and ſuch like other Lamb-ſtones and Sweet-breads, ſuch as you can get, you may alſo adde thereunto ſome peeces of marrow amongſt your other Lamb-ſtones and Sweet-breads; and alſo Cheſnuts half roaſted; And in the ſeaſon, of Verjuice in Grapes, you may adde thereunto about a dozen Grapes, more or leſs according unto the bigneſs of your Paſtie; finally you may proceed to fill up the reſt of the Pie with your minced meat, and you may preſle it down gently upon your Lamb-ſtones or Sweet-breads.
In caſe you make a very high Paſty indeed, you may place therein ſeverall layes of minced meat, and ſeaſon it only (as it hath been already preſcribed) with nothing but Junkets, as Lamb-ſtones, ſweet-breads, and the like.
Cover well your ſaid Paſtie and waſh it, after you ſhall have made a ſmall hole in the upper part of its Cap or Crown.
Now if ſo bee the cruſt of your59 Paſty bee very fine and high, you muſt put a ſtay of gray courſe paper, round about the body of your Paſty; this ſaid ſtay muſt be faſtned to the edge of your Paſtie, and rubbed with good freſh butter on the ſide which is to touch your Paſty cruſt, after which you muſt put a peece of pack threed to tie it unto the Paſtie.
When as your Paſtie ſhall be thus prepared, garniſhed, ſtuffed and covered, you may put it into the Oven; Nor needs the Oven to be ſo very much heated as when you intend to bake greater Paſties; For theſe kind of Pies will bee ſufficiently baked in the ſpace of a good half hour, unleſs they be extraordinary big; and in caſe they have a proportionable heat allotted unto them; moreover according to the greatneſſe or littleneſſe of the ſaid Pies, they will require a greater or leſſer time to be baked.
Note, that you may very well make one of theſe Pies in a Tartpan, and you may alſo make the60 cruſt leaved, or very thin if you pleaſe.
CHAP. XXIII.
To make a Pie of Cockney ovall minced Pies.
THeſe kind of Pies muſt be made of the brisket of Veal, or likewiſe of other meat minced with Suet, and ſeaſoned in the ſame manner as your former Pies were; wherefore a Pie of Cockney minced Pies differs only from the foregoing Pies, only that the former are made in a round, and covered with a hovil or high paſte; and theſe latter are flat, uncovered and made after the figure of an Ovall; moreover theſe Ovall minced Pies have another particular property, that they muſt bee ſprinkled and ſeaſoned with a white ſance, made with Verjuice, and ſome few yolks of Eggs beaten together; this ſauce is put into an Oval61 mince Pie, when as it is well baked, after which you muſt again put your ſaid Pie into the Oven for about the ſpace of one quarter of an hour, to the end that this ſaid ſauce may thicken.
Obſerve, that you muſt faſten the meat of your ſaid Ovall mince Pie, and the cruſt together; that is, you muſt preſs it with your fingers cloſe to the cruſt, but chiefly round the ſides, that ſo your paſte may be the firmer and faſter.
Now, when as you have prepared your firſt lay of meat, you muſt cover it with Sparagus, and with other Lamb-ſtones and Sweet-breads, amongſt which (if ſo be they are in ſeaſon) you muſt put ſome Spaniſh or French Cheſnuts, half roaſted, and ſome Verjuice in Grapes when it is to bee had, after which you may grate a little Nutmeg over the Lamb-ſtones and Sweet-breads, and you ſhall again cover theſe Lambſtones and Sweet-breads with a lay of Minced meat, prepared and ſeaſoned62 as aboveſaid; and after you ſhall have ſomewhat preſſed the ſaid meat upon the Lamb-ſtones and Sweet-breads, you may make up the ſides of your Paſtie, and you may ſtiffen them by a ſhoulder of paſte which you ſhould adde thereunto on the inſide, and you ſhall make in ſuch a manner, as that it may ſomewhat overtop the meat; and then you muſt cut off the ſaid top of paſte which doth touch the meat of your Paſtie, and adde thereunto ſome few ſmall puddings or rowles which you ſhall have purpoſely prepared of your mince meat, you may alſo grate a little Nutmeg upon your ſaid Paſty, juſt as it is in a readineſs to be put into the Oven.
Cauſe your ſaid Pie to bee baked, and when it is almoſt throughly baked, you ſhall draw it to the Ovens mouth, to poure into it the white ſauce, of which wee gave you a hint and preſcription before, and after that, return your Pie into the Oven again to be perfectly baked.
63You may alſo make one of theſe Pies in a Tart-pan, and you may alſo make the Cruſt of leaved paſte as aforeſaid.
CHAP. XXIV.
To make a Paſtie or Pie of Lamb ſtones, Sweet-breads, and other Junkets.
YOu muſt make uſe of minced meat to make theſe Pies as well as the former, and you muſt ſeaſon them in the ſame faſhion, as for the foregoing Ovall minced Pies, either to bee kept cold, or thoſe which are to bee ſerved up hot; but you muſt obſerve, that in theſe Lamb-ſtones and Sweet-breads pies, you muſt put leſſe minced meat than in the others, and more Lamb ſtones and Sweetbreads, and alſo more ſuet and marrow betwixt the layes of the Lamb-ſtones aad Sweet-breads; And you muſt garniſh the whole with ſmall64 rowls or puddings made of the ſame minced meat, after which you may grate a little Nutmeg over it, after which you may cloſe your pie, and put it into the Oven.
CHAP. XXV.
The manner how to make a Tart of Lamb-ſtones and Sweetbreads.
YOu muſt only make the foregoing pie in a Tart pan well garniſhed with all manner of Junkets, and let your cruſt bee made of leaved paſte, which will produce a rare Tart.
CHAP. XXVI.
Another manner how to make a Tart of minced meat.
TAke either Veal or other good meat which is wel perboyled if it65 be a good Capon it is the better, flea it, take out the ſinnews and the bones, after which mince the meat thereof very ſmall, and pound it in a Morter, adde thereunto a little freſh Cheeſe, and as much old Cheeſe grated or ſhredded very ſmal, put therein ſix Eggs well beaten, and as much marrow as you ſhall think fitting, or in ſtead thereof, as much fat Porke ſmall ſhreded, adde and mingle theſe things all together, and ſeaſon them with ſalt well powdered, as alſo with a little ſpice, or beaten Cinamon.
When you have thus prepared your ingredients, you may put in a Tart-pan a paſte of leaved dough, garniſh it ſufficiently with your puddings or rowls, after which cover it with a lid of paſte, make a ſmall hole on the top, and let the ſaid Tart be ſufficiently baked.
CHAP. XXVII.
To make a Pie after the Cardinals manner.
SPread abroad into a little Tart-pan, or in a white lattin ſquare Pie-pan, leaved paſte or dough as thick as almoſt a half Crown, and let it hang over the Tart-pan on all ſides, fill up this paſty ſufficiently with raw Veal, or any raw Fouls fleſh whatſoever, or if you pleaſe let it be perboyled; that is to ſay, let it be above half boyled, and let it bee very ſmall minced, with the ſelf ſame quantity of Marrow, or Beef ſuet, and let this compoſition be ſeaſoned with ſalt ſpices; you may likewiſe adde thereunto ſome Pine-apple kernels, and a few Currans, as alſo a few morſels of the yolks of Eggs hard boyled.
When as this your ſaid pie ſhall be well garniſhed & filled, you muſt curiouſly cover it with a cruſt of leaved67 paſte, and then cauſe it to be put into the Oven.
Some Paſtrie men do put Sugar into theſe kind of Pies, as alſo a ſweet ſauce when as they are half baked; moreover if theſe pies bee but little ones, you may cauſe them to be baked in a little braſs Oven which is portable.
CHAP. XXVIII.
The manner to make a Paſtie according to the Engliſh manner.
TAke a young Hare which is very tender, which is uncaſed; take off all its skin, cut off its head, and feet, flatten its ſtomack, and beat the ſaid Hares fleſh alſo very well, to the end that it may become the ſhorter, make little ſlaſhes in the back and thighs of the ſaid Hare, but let them be long and deep enough; or elſe if you pleaſe you may cut the ſaid Hare all in peeces, and afterwards68 lard the fleſh thereof with ſmall ſlices of fat Bacon.
When your Hare ſhal be thus prepared, you muſt make your Paſty of a ſufficient bigneſſe, and let it bee at leaſt two good inches thick, place it upon a ſheete of paper, and upon the end of your ſaid paſty, you muſt place a lay of Marrow, or of beef ſuet, or of fat bacon very ſmall ſhreded; this lay or bed muſt bee as long and as broad as the whole Hare, and ſeaſon this lay of marrow and ſuet with ſalt ſpices, after which you may lay the Hare upon this bed of marrow, with its belly downwards and if ſo bee you have cut the ſaid Hare all aſunder, you muſt place all the ſeveral parts in their proper places again, after which you muſt ſeaſon the ſaid Hare with ſalt ſpices, and on the top of the ſaid Hare you muſt again place a lay of marrowor ſuet Minced, and afterwards garniſh your ſaid Pye with Lambsſtones and ſweet-breads of all ſorts, with Currans, with Pine-kernells,69 well waſhed, with the ryne of Lemmons preſerved, cut in ſmall ſlices; adde hereunto likewiſe ſmall morcels of marrow, Muſcherons, Piſtaches, if you have any Calves reignes, Cocks combs perboyled, the yolks of hard Eggs, quartered, or whole, and Capers, if there be any to bee had.
You muſt mingle all theſe Lambsſtones and ſweet-breads together, and ſeaſon them with a little ſalt ſpices, and after all theſe Lambs ſtones and Sweet breads, ſhall bee placed upon the Hare; You may cover it with a ſlight lay of minced ſuet, and put ſome few ſlices of fat Bacon upon it, upon which you may ſpred all over half a pound of freſh butter, which you muſt place upon the whole, and above the butter you muſt put a good thumping handfull of ſuger.
When your Pye ſhall bee thus prepared, and furniſhed, cover the hole with the other end of your paſte which remained unuſed; and70 when your pye ſhall bee well covered and faſhioned, you muſt waſh it on the outſide or burniſh it, and ſo cauſe it to bee put into the Oven upon a ſheet of paper, and have a care not to break it.
After this pye ſhall have been in the Oven, for the ſpace of one half houre, you muſt make a hole in the middle of the upper cruſt, that ſo it may not burn; And you muſt keep the Oven as if it were for a Turky-pye.
This ſaid pye may be very well baked in two hours time.
Some Curious pallats do ſteep half a grain of Musk with a drop or two of Roſe-water, and do poure it into the ſaid Pye in their filling of it up, but the ſent of the Musk doth for the moſt part oſtend the Female ſex, and ſome Males too; wherefore it is far better omitted; and deemed beſt not at all to put in any.
When this your Pye ſhall be well baked, you muſt draw it forth of the71 Oven, and you ſhall ſpread gently upon the cruſt thereof, froſty ſuger, which may bee done with a knife, or with the back of a ſilver ſpoon, and this ſaid froſty Suger, muſt be as thin almoſt as a ſheet of paper.
So ſoon as your ſaid Pye ſhall bee waſhed, or burniſht with this Froſt, you muſt put it again into the Ovens Mouth, for the ſpace of a half quarter of an hour, to make the ſaid froſt drye; And you muſt note that the heat muſt bee very moderate, that ſo the ſaid Froſt may remain white, for if the Oven ſhould prove to bee over hot, the ſaid Froſt would turn red or yellow, as ſoon therefore as your ſaid Froſt is dryed, you muſt draw your Paſty out of the Oven, and you muſt ſerve it up to the Table as ſpeedily as you can, leaſt that your Pye ſhould take cold, and that as then the froſt ſhould melt.
CHAP. XXIX.
To make a Paſty according to the Sweiſſes faſhion.
MAke a Paſty of half leaved Dough, and make the cruſt at leaſt an Inch thick, put into the bottome thereof a good handfull of minced veal with ſuet, after which you may garniſh your ſaid Pye with a Hare, or Conny, cut aſunder; ſeaſon the meat thereof with ſalt ſpyces, adde good ſtore of Spaniſh Cheſ-nuts thereunto, Muſcherons, a Leek, or an Onion bruiſed, or cut in quarters, and ſome ſorts of Junkets, if they are to be had, after which, place theron a handful ofminced veal, with ſuet, and ſix or 7 rouls of veal, afterwards one half pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of marow and a quarter of a pound of beef ſuet minced, and Laſtly, Some few ſlices of fat Bacon on the Top of all.
73When this your pye ſhall bee well garniſhed and furniſhed, you muſt cover it with a lidde of leaved paſte, as thick as the half of the little finger, waſh or burniſh the ſaid lidde, and make a hole in the middle of it; after which you ſhall do well to lap up all your ſaid pye in a Buttered paper, which muſt bee as high as the paſty it ſelf, and you muſt tye on the ſaid paper that it may not fall off.
Put your pye into the Oven upon a white paper, and give it an indifferent heat, as for a Cuſtard.
The ſaid pye will require at leaſt two houres baking.
CHAP. XXX.
To make a paſſing delicate Giblet Pie.
YOu muſt cauſe your Giblets or Offalls of all kind of fowl to be very well picked, and cleanſed, as for74 example, the necks which are cut into morcels, the wings, the gizzards, and livers; out of all which you muſt take al that is bitter; waſh all theſe ſeveral parcels very well in 3 or 4 ſeveral waters, and afterwards let them dry and drop out again; you may likewiſe cut into moreels the Lights and Livers of a Lamb, or of a ſucking pig, after you have taken that which is bitter out of them; that is to ſay, the Gall; and you muſt have a care well to waſh the ſaid Geather after you have cut the ſame into peeces.
Afterwards you muſt put theſe ſeveral peeces into a clean wooden platter, and ſeaſon them well with ſalt ſpices, with Parſly, and with Bacon ſmall ſliced or minced; Hereunto you may adde ſome few Muſcherons, and verjuice in Grapes when they are in ſeaſon, or Cardus roots, or Sparagus, or elſe ſome Hartichoak bottoms cut into ſmall ſlices.
When all theſe ingredients ſhall be in a readineſſe, you may make75 up your paſte or dough, which muſt be made of very fine meal, and you muſt give it a thickneſſe of about half a Crown, more or leſſe, according to the bigneſs of your Paſtie, which you muſt afterwards fill with the Giblets aforenamed, being ſeaſoned in the ſelf ſame manner as it hath been already preſcribed; upon which Giblets you muſt place ſome ſlices of fat Bacon, and a good lump of freſh Butter, which you muſt ſpread according to the bigneſſe of your ſaid Paſtie.
Put a lid of paſte upon your ſaid Pie, and waſh, or burniſh it, and if ſo be you think it fitting, you may wrap it in a ſheet of paper well rubed with butter; forget not to make a hole in the lid of the Pie, and cauſe your ſaid Paſtie to be put into the Oven, and when it is baked you muſt poure a little white ſauce into it through a Funnel, after which you muſt put your Pie into the Oven again for a pretty while, untill the ſauce or liquor thereof (which muſt76 bee compoſed of the yolks of Eggs, beaten with a little Verjuice or Vineger) be well thickned or come to a competent body, after which you muſt draw it for good and all.
CHAP. XXXI.
To make a Mince Pie according to the Italian faſhion, with leaved or fine Paſte.
PRepare your leaved or fine paſte, and give it an inch thickneſs, in the bottom whereof you ſhall place a lay of about a hand full of minced Veal and Suet together, unto which you may adde three Partridges, or old Pigeons, having cut off their feet and leggs, the wings and necks, and beaten the breaſts flat, which ſaid fowl you ſhall lard in ſeveral places in the ſelf ſame manner as it was preſcribed in the larding of a Venſon Paſtie; after which you may ſeaſon them with your ſalt ſpices,77 And put unto them peeled Cheſnuts, Pine apple kernels and currans, a little handfull of each, three yolks of Eggs hard boyled, and cut through the middle, a ſmall quantity of beaten Cinnamon, and a quarter and a half a pound of Sugar; a ſlice or two of preſerved Lemmon peel, and hereunto you may adde ſome Mouſcherons, and Lambſtones and Sweet-breads, if they are to be had; And if ſo be you are not minded to put Partridges or Pigeons into your ſaid Pie, you may make the ſame of any other meat; as for example, a Conny cut into ſeveral peeces, and well larded.
Moreover to keep a better nouriſhment, or to augment the meat of this your Paſtie, you may adde unto all theſe ingredients one handfull of minced Veal, with Marrow, or Suet, a quarter of a pound of each, and ſome ſlices of fat Bacon on the top of the whole; which ſaid Paſtie being thus well filled up, you muſt cover the ſame with a lid of leaved78 or thin paſte, not above the thickneſs of your little finger, or thereabouts, waſh or varniſh your ſaid lid, and make a hole in the top of your ſaid lid.
Obſerve, that you muſt of neceſſitie wrap your whole Paſtie in a buttered paper, which muſt be as high as your ſaid Paſtie, and you muſt tye it about your pie with packthred, to preſerve your Paſtie the better. After which, cauſe your pie to be put into the Oven, being placed upon a ſheet of white paper, and you muſt give your Oven an indifferent warm harth, as you are uſed to do unto a Cuſtard; This Paſtie will require at leaſt two houres and a half baking.
When your ſaid Pie is almoſt baked, you muſt cauſe it to be drawn forth of the Oven, and you muſt poure thereinto with a Funnel, through the hole which you had left in the lid, a ſweet ſauce, made with a quarter of a pound of Sugar, and almoſt a quarter of a pinte of white79 wine, whereinto you muſt infuſe a little Cinnamon powdered; After which you muſt put your Pie into the Oven again, and there leave it at leaſt half an hour to thicken the ſaid ſweet ſauce.
CHAP. XXXII.
To make ſmall minced Pies according to the Spaniſh faſhion.
YOu muſt make your paſte very fine, and to one pinte of flower, adde four yolks of Eggs thereunto, and when your ſaid paſte ſhall bee thus prepared, you ſhall form the cruſt of your little minced Pies, not above two ſheets of paper in thickneſſe, or a little more, according to the bigneſſe of your Pies, and you ſhall fill them up with the following minced meat. Viz.
Mince very ſmall all the fleſh of a Capon, a quarter of a pound of freſh Porck, and a quarter of a pound of80 Mutton, two Calves kidneys, a quantity of fat Bacon, good marrow and Beef Suet, of each one a quarter of a pound, a few Leeks or Onions, and great ſtore of Mouſcherons, both ſalt and ſweet ſpices at difcretion; All which ingredients you muſt mince together.
You muſt garniſh, or fill your pies with theſe minced meats, and after that, make up your Pies with fine flower lids wrought; and having waſhed or burniſht your ſaid lids, you may cauſe theſe your little Spaniſh minced pies to bee well and throughly baked.
CHAP. XXXIII.
To make ſmall minced Pies according to the Princeſſe faſhion.
TAke ſugared paſte and make little pie paſtes of them in the leaſt form, which you can poſſibly make, you muſt make up theſe in little81 Tart-pans in the ſame manner as you would make your pies according to the Cardinals manner; Fill up theſe little pies with perboyled or roſted fleſh which is very tender, as the fleſh of a Capon very ſmall minced, together with ſome Marrow of Beef, being well ſe aſoned with ſalt ſpices; you may adde hereunto Sweetbreads, Cox-combs, and ſuch other like Junkets, as Mouſcherons boyled in Butter, and the like.
When your little Princeſſe Pies ſhall bee thus filled up, you muſt cover them with the ſame paſte, and afterwards you may cauſe them to bee baked, giving them an indifferent warm harth; And you muſt obſerve, that one quarter of an hours time will bake them ſufficiently.
CHAP. XXXIV.
To make a Carp or any other fiſh Pie, Venſon Paſtie-like, to be eaten cold.
TAke a fair large Carp, or any other fiſh that is large and big; and if it bee a ſcale fiſh, you muſt ſcrape off the ſcales; and afterwards gut it; ſome kind of fiſhes there are which you muſt flea like as you do Eeles,
After you have thus gutted the fiſh, you may alſo take out its lungs which is nought to bee eaten either boyled, baked or ſtewed.
Your fiſh being thus prepared, you muſt lance it well, and deep on the back, and afterwards lard your fiſh, with lard made of her wings, or ſlices of Eeles, and out of Lent or Ember weeks you may alſo lard your fiſh with ſat Bacon, as you do fleſh.
You muſt not forget to take out of your fiſh the Milters, and Rows which you ſhall find in their bellies.
83Now when your fiſh is thus throughly prepared you may then form, or raiſe a paſte two or three inches thick; And if ſo be you have a great fiſh to put in paſte, you muſt bee ſure to make our paſtie long and broad enough; After which you muſt place upon one of the ends of your ſaid paſte, a lay of freſh Butter which muſt bee proportioned to the length of your fiſh; which you muſt powder with ſalt ſpices, and afterwards you ſhall place your fiſh upon the ſaid lay of Butter; ſo likewiſe muſt you powder your ſaid fiſh, both within its belly, and without, all about it with your ſalt ſpices; as alſo put into its belly a lay of Butter, and afterwards on the top of your ſaid fiſh, place another lay of Butter, together with ſome few Bay-leaves; you muſt place the Milters and Rows of your ſaid fiſh on either ſide of it in the ſaid Paſtie; and be ſure to ſpice them well; you muſt ſalt your ſaid pie according to your own diſcretion and judgement, and when84 you have thus ſeaſoned it, you muſt cloſe your pie, and to this end redouble or cover over your ſaid fiſh, with the other end of your paſte which you had left empty; After which you muſt waſh or varniſh your ſaid Pie with lean varniſh, in caſe it bee in Lent; that is to ſay, a varniſh made without Eggs.
Put this Pie into the Oven, and after it ſhall have been half an hour therein you muſt make a little hole in the upper cruſt, and afterwards you muſt return it into the Oven again, to have it fully baked.
Obſerve, That ſuch a Pie as this of a great fiſh, will require at leaſt three houres baking; eſpecially if your Pie be any thing big; And when you ſhall judge that your ſaid Pie is almoſt baked, you ſhall cauſe it to bee drawn out of the Oven; And you muſt try with a little ſtick which you may put into the hole which you have left on the top of your Pie, whether or no your liquor or ſauce doth ſwim above the fiſh;85 For that in caſe your ſauce chances to bee too much conſumed, as it doth oftentimes happen, you muſt as then cauſe ſome butter to be melted, which you muſt ſeaſon with your ſalt ſpices, and afterwards poure it into your Pie through a Funnel, to augment the ſauce which ſhall have been conſumed, as aforeſaid.
One day after this your ſaid Paſtie ſhall have been baked, you muſt ſtop the hole which you have made before in the lid thereof; And the which you may eaſily do with a little paſte which you may put thereinto; And thus your ſaid Pie will keep for a good while, till ſuch time as you ſhall have occaſion to eat it.
CHAP. XXXV.
To make a fiſh Pie, covered or uncovered, which ſaid Pie muſt be eaten hot.
TAke what kind of Fiſh ſoever you pleaſe, as for example, a Carp, or an Eele, or a Tench, or a Roche, fit and prepare them in the ſame manner as we have preſcribed you in the foregoing Chapter, ſave an Eele, that you muſt not lard them.
Some are of Opinion, that it is beſt to perboyle the Fiſh in hot water, after it ſhall have been prepared and accommodated, eſpecially if the ſaid Fiſh bee ſlimy or gravelly, as your Tenches or Eeles are; which muſt bee done before you put them into the Paſte; which is alſo practiſed by the Paſtry Men; for you muſt note that in caſe you put Raw Fiſh into Paſte it will make your Pye burſt.
87When as your fiſh ſhall bee thus prepared, you muſt alſo make ready your Paſte of fine or leaved dough, and you muſt proportion it to the length and height of your Fiſh; And you muſt alſo obſerve, that all Fiſh Pyes are commonly made Oval-wiſe; However you muſt alſo obſerve, that the cruſt of ſuch like Pyes is not uſually made ſo very fine as the others, that is to ſay, you muſt not put ſo much butter in the Dough, eſpecially when you intend to make the ſaid Pyes open becauſe that otherwiſe the cruſt would eaſily fall down, and your ſauce would bee ſpilt, the cruſt muſt bee about the thickneſs of two or three half crowns at leaſt.
You muſt therefore obſerve not to make the paſte of your ſaid fiſh Pyes ſo very thinne, and that your good Paſtry men do knead it with hot water, to make it the firmer; and when you ſhall have made up your cruſt for a fiſh Pye, which is to bee open or uncovered, you muſt leave88 it in the ayre for the ſpace of an hour or two, that ſo it may become firm before you put your fiſh into it.
And you muſt proportion the greatneſſe of your Cruſt unto the bigneſſe of the fiſh which you do intend to put into it; And after your ſaid Paſty cruſt ſhall bee well thickned and firmed, you ſhall place in the bottome of it, a lay of freſh butter; and you muſt powder it with your ſalt ſpices, and ſo lay your fiſh upon it; which you muſt have lanced in the fleſhieſt parts before you put it into the ſaid Paſte, And in caſe you have cut your fiſh in Morcels, you muſt have a care to place the ſaid peeces in their proper places, and if your Pye bee made Ovallwiſe, as then put a lay of butter in the fiſhes belly, and another lay on the top of your ſaid fiſh, after which ſeaſon it with your ſaid ſalt ſpices, you may alſo lay at your fiſhes ſides the Rowes and Milters, and you muſt alſo powder them with your89 ſalt ſpices, you may alſo adde unto your ſaid Pye, Pine-apple kernells, Currans, Muſcherons, Capers, and Pomgranats, ſmall pieces of Hartichoak ſtooles, or ſuch other like junkets, in caſe they are to bee had, and ſome new verjuice in grapes, ſome who are more curious do adde hereunto Oyſters, which are perboyled in ſeething water; And you muſt have a great care above all things that your Paſtie be not over exceſſively ſalted.
Moreover in caſe your cruſt bee very fine, or that you apprehend that it may chance to fall when it is in the Oven, when your ſaid paſty ſhall be well moiſtned with your melted butter, you muſt as then ſwathe it without, and you may alſo put a double ſwathe of paper in the inſide of your Paſty before you fill it up. The ſwathes muſt be made of double paper, and muſt bee well rubbed with butter, and you muſt alſo not fail to tye them on the outſides with good Packthread.
90Put your Pye into the Oven, and take care that the cruſt thereof, do not fall down neither of one ſide nor of the other; And in caſe it ſhould chance to fall down on any ſide, you muſt as then gently heave it up again with an Oven Peel.
When your Pye ſhall bee half baked, you muſt draw it to the Ovens mouth, to poure butter and verjuvce into it, or elſe you may put into it two ounces of peeled Almonds which ſhall have been pounded, or reduced to milk, with a little verjuice, after which you muſt put the Pye into the Oven again.
Moreover, theſe Fiſh-pyes which are uncovered, may bee very well baked in an houre, or an hour and a halfs time, provided that they bee of a middle ſize.
Obſerve that in caſe you bee minded to put a whole Eele in paſte, and to make an open paſty of it, you muſt open it, and cut it at every four inches length or thereabouts,91 for if ſo bee you do not break it, it wil prick it ſelf up in the baking, and in its ſtretching it ſelf forth, it may chance to break your Paſty and ſo ſpoil it, wherefore its better to cut it into morcels, as long as you pleaſe your ſelf.
You may alſo make theſe fiſhpyes covered, and to this purpoſe you muſt make your Paſty large and long enough, to make your Paſty all of a peece, in the ſame manner as you do make a Venſon-paſty.
When your Paſty ſhall bee thus prepared, you muſt place on one of the ends thereof a lay of freſh butter; ſeaſon it with ſpices, and place your fiſh ready dreſſed upon it; and when your Pye ſhall bee thus fully ſtuffed, you may cover it with the other end of your paſte which you ſhall have left empty, after which you muſt make a hole on the top of the Lidde, as it hath been formerly ſaid, in the Chapter which treateth of the Venſon-paſties.
Obſerve Moreover, that ſometimes92 you may make round fiſhpyes, or others, like unto your mince-pyes to bee eaten hot; And theſe like Pyes muſt bee alſo covered as it hath been before alledged, and the fiſh which you do intend to put therein muſt be alſo cut in peeces as aforeſaid.
CHAP. XXXVI.
To make Minced Fiſh-Pyes, the bones and griſſels being taken out.
TAke as much fine dough as your own judgement and experience will guide you to, which ſaid Paſte you muſt make as fine as your minced pyes, or Cockney-Pyes, and prepare and ſhape your paſty or Pyes in the ſame manner as your Cardinall Faſties are made: And in caſe you make them like unto your minced Pyes, you muſt remember to make your cruſt a little thicker in93 the bottome then elſe where.
When your paſty is gotten in a readineſſe, you muſt firſt line it with a ſlender lay of butter, after which you ſhall fill your Pye up half way with minced Carp, or of other Fiſh which is ſeaſoned in the ſame manner, as wee ſhall hereafter preſcribe.
After which you muſt place upon your minced fiſh, ſome few Lenten Sweet-breads and Junkets; As for example ſome morcels of Hartichoak ſtools, or of perboyled Sparagus, or Carps Tongues boyled in good broath, or Cheſnuts half roaſted; And out of Lent you may put therein ſome of the yolks of Eggs, hard boyled, ſo likewiſe on gaudy dayes, you may adde thereunto ſome morcels of marrow.
When your Pie ſhall be thus repleniſhed with Lamb-ſtones and Sweet-breads, you muſt adde another morcel of Butter thereunto, and although you ſhould not chance to put any Lamb-ſtones and Sweetbreads94 at all in your ſaid Pie, yet you muſt not fail to place a lay of Butter upon the firſt minced fiſh;
After which you may proceed to fill up your Pie to the very top with your minced fiſh, upon the top of all which you muſt again place a lay of Butter, and if ſo bee your pies bee made in a round form like unto your hot minced Pies; you muſt adde unto them a lid of paſte like unto a pinacle which you muſt place upon the top, and afterwards you muſt waſh or varniſh your ſaid Pie lid.
Put theſe Pies into the Oven, and given them an indifferent warm harth as you do in the baking of your ſmall minced Pies.
And in caſe you intend to make theſe minced fiſh Pies uncovered, after they ſhall have been baked, you may adde unto them a ſweet ſauce; And if it bee upon a fleſh day, you may adde thereunto the gravy of a joynt of Mutton, or of any other peece of Roſte meat, or elſe a white ſauce made of the yolks of raw Eggs95 beaten together with a little Verjuice.
After which you muſt put your Pie into the Oven again, for a little while, that ſo it may partake of the taſte of the ſaid ſauce, and likewiſe the ſaid ſauce may have time to thicken; But you muſt obſerve not to make theſe minced Pies of fiſh too big, for that elſe you will not be able to handle them, nor order them well; And therefore you had better make them in the manner of Tarts, and bake them in a Tart-pan, making them up in a paſte or dough very thin, and as we formerly called it, a leaved paſte.
CHAP. XXXVII.
The manner how to unbone your fiſh, and to prepare a good mince meat of fiſh, where withall to fill up and garniſh your Pies.
THe beſt way to make a minced meat of fiſh, is in the firſt place to ſcale your fiſh if it be needfull; and afterwards to peel it, that is, to flea it, and afterwards to gut it, and to take all out of its belly, as well the Milters and the ſoft Rows, as the blood; after which you muſt take out the bones, that is to ſay, you muſt ſeparate the fiſh from the bones, and you muſt alſo take away the ſmall bones which are mingled and interlaced betwixt the fiſhes fleſh; Moreover you muſt bee very exact in taking out the ſaid bones, which may bee performed by ſlicing your fiſh into ſeverall morcels, and taking the bones out of them with a knife;97 As for example in a Carp, But by reaſon that this way or manner of unboneing a fiſh is hard and ſomewhat difficult, and that alſo the fleſh of your fiſh being put into your Pies raw, will make them burſt; it is therefore neceſſary that you cauſe your fiſh thus to be unboned.
When your fiſh is ſcaled and ſtripped, you muſt plunge it into water, which is almoſt boyling hot, and let it ſteep therein more or leſſe according unto the thickneſſe of your ſaid fiſh; and you may know when it is time to draw it forth of the ſaid water, which you may do, when you may eaſily ſeparate the fiſh from the bones, and in this manner you will eaſily unbone your fiſh; But whereas the hot water doth take away part of the fiſhes taſte, and ſubſtance, you muſt therefore cauſe it to bee boyled in a thin broath, and after you ſhall have ſuffered your ſaid fiſh to have become cold in the ſaid thin broath, that ſo it may partake of the taſte of it, you may98 eaſily ſeparate the fleſh from the bones of the fiſh.
Having thus ſeparated the bones from the fiſh, you muſt place it upon a table, adding thereunto a little Parſly, ſome Salt, and a few Muſcherons cut in ſlices, and a few ſpices, and if you have a mind to have your ſaid Pies be ſweet, you may adde unto them a few Currans, and ſome Pine-apple kernels, well waſhed; All which ingredients you muſt mince together, and when your minced fiſh is thus prepared, you may fill up your Pies therewith, as it hath been already deſcribed.
Now if you have any minced fiſh remaining over and above, you may put it into a Porrenger with ſome Butter and an Onion, or with a Leek, and cauſe them to bee all boyled together, and whileſt they are a boyling, you muſt now and then ſtir them, and adde unto them a few Capers, and a little thin broath if you have any, and at the latter end a little Verjuice.
99When your ſaid minced fiſh is thus boyled, and that your ſauce is become ſavoury, you muſt take out your Onion or Leek, and you muſt grate a ſmall quantity of Nutmeg upon your ſaid minced meat, in caſe you have put no ſpices into it before.
You may alſo adde unto your ſaid minced fiſh ſome ſlices of fryed bread, as alſo a quantity. of Almane, or Dutch ſauce, in caſe you have not any thing broath to put into it.
And the better to diſguiſe your minced fiſh, you may mince amongſt it ſome yolks and whites of Eggs hard boyled, or elſe you may adde thereunto ſome gravy of a joynt of Mutton, or of any other good meat.
Moreover, in caſe you deſire to make any Chitterlings or Links of your ſaid minced fiſh; take your ſaid minced fiſh before it bee per boyled in Butter, and ſprinkle it with the white of an Egge, or with a little Verjuice, or a little white Wine, after which100 you muſt preſs or ſqueeze your minced fiſh in your hands, to incorporate it in the manner of Chitterlings, after which you may cauſe them to be baked in the ſame manner as your minced Pies.
Some do cauſe their minced fiſh to bee perboyled before they do maketheir Pies of them, but when once the minced fiſh happens to bee perboyled, it becomes too too flaſhy, or waſhy by reaſon of the ſauce which is added thereunto.
CHAP. XXXVIII.
To make little minced Pies of Fiſh with Oyl, in ſtead of Butter, to be eaten in Lent.
MAke up your paſte with Oyl as aforeſaid, and make up ſmall Pies of the ſame in Tart-pans, unleſſe you had rather make up your little Pies as they are to bee eaten hot.
101When your paſte ſhall be thus prepared, you may repleniſh them with the minced parts of Carps, or Pikes, Perches, or Soles, or Whitings, or any ſuch like excellent fiſh boyled in a good thin broath; & let this your minced fiſh, bee well chopped with a little parſly and Pine-apple kernells; and a few Anchoves well watered, whereunto you may adde ſome Muſcherons boyled in butter, and let all theſe things bee well minced together, and ſeaſon theſe your ſaid minced meat with ſalt ſpyces.
Now when this your minced Fiſh, together with the aforeſaid ingredients, ſhall bee well chopped and mingled together, you muſt adde thereunto, a reaſonable quantity of pure and ſweet Oyle, which you muſt cauſe to bee refined in the ſelf ſame manner as it hath been preſcribed in the Chapter which treats of Pies baked with Oyle; And when your minced-meat ſhall bee thus prepared, you may fill your Paſte102 therewith, after which you muſt cover your Pies with a Lidde made of the ſelf ſame paſte kneaded with Oyle, varniſh it, and cauſe theſe your Pyes to bee baked, but let them have an indifferent warm harth.
Moreover, Thoſe who do not love or affect Oyle, may inſtead thereof, uſe butter in the making of your ſaid Pyes.
CHAP. XXXIX.
The manner how to make a March-Pain wafer.
SUppoſe you intend to imploy half a peck or thereabouts of wheaten flower, to make a March-Pain, you muſt take about the bigneſſe of two Hennes Eggs of leaven and place the third part, or thereabouts, of your flower, upon a clean dreſſer board.
Make a ridge or Fountain in the middle of your Meal, put your103 leaven therein, and diſſolve it exactly with hot water, by kneading of it with your hands, after which you muſt mingle your meal with the leaven you have thus diſſolved in the water, and you muſt put ſuch a quantity of water therein, as will ſuffice to knead your ſaid Paſte, untill it becomes very ſoft, and you muſt not leave it untill it be very ſupple; Now when your paſte ſhall bee ſufficiently kneaded as aforeſaid, in ſuch a manner as that there bee no Clots remaining in it, you muſt cover it over, and place it in a warm place, where no Ayre nor cold can enter, juſt as if you had prepared Dough to make bread withall.
You muſt leave your ſaid paſte for the ſpace of two or three houres in this kind, eſpecially in ſummer, that ſo this your paſte may bee the better united and ſetled, but if